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Somerset
House Yields Archaeological Secrets
The
opening of one of London's newest museums in one of the country's
most important buildings, Somerset House, was the catalyst for several
exciting archaeological discoveries on the River Thames. The South
and Embankment Buildings of Sir William Chambers' architectural
masterpiece became the (temporary) home of the spectacular Gilbert
Collection of decorative arts, one of the most important collections
of works of art ever given to Britain.
The
site of Somerset House on the Thames was originally occupied by
episcopal houses and in the late 1540s a Renaissance palace was
built there for the Lord Protector Somerset. The palace was seized
by the Crown after Somerset's execution in 1552 and served as a
royal dower house for two centuries. In 1775 it was transferred
by an Act of Parliament from the Crown to the government for the
benefit and convenience of the public. Somerset's palace was then
demolished to make way for the present building which was constructed
from 1776 onwards by George III's architect Sir William Chambers.
Somerset House is not only of great architectural importance, and
significant as one of the earliest purpose-designed government office
buildings, but is also a feat of civil engineering which required
the construction of the Embankment Building in the Thames itself
and the terracing of the rest of the site to provide the Courtyard,
two storeys above the original Tudor garden.
When
Sir Arthur Gilbert gave his magnificent collection to the nation
in 1996, the Heritage Lottery Fund awarded a grant for the repair
and fitting-out of the Embankment Building of Somerset House as
a museum for its display, and a further grant was awarded to complete
the repair of the remainder of the South Building. The Oxford Archaeological
Unit was commissioned to make an archaeological record of the Embankment
Building and the South Building during the extensive work involved
with their conversion into the new museum.
Their
survey confirmed the line of the 16th-century wall which originally
fronted the garden of Protector Somerset's Tudor palace, and re-exposed
a riverside bastion shown in a painting of the palace by Canaletto.
It was found that the Embankment Building, lying between the South
Building and the river, was constructed on timber piles set in the
river with floors using state-of-the-art composite timbers.
Information
was recovered on the aquatic environment of the River Thames in
Georgian times which was the source of much of London's drinking
water. The building had a piped water supply - a furnace and shaft
which may have powered the water supply were revealed, complete
with a huge iron stoking shovel. There was also a complex drainage
system and the infill material around it was rich in finds from
18th-century London. Each office in the six-storey building had
a soundproofing layer built into its floor and this layer collected
many items which slipped between the floor-boards, from pen nibs
and sealing wax to a medallion commemorating a royal wedding in
1818, and a personal possession lost by a visitor in 1980.
A
key feature of the Embankment Building was the Great Arch that allowed
the river to flow into the dock of the King's Barge House. This
was closed when the Victoria Embankment was constructed in the late
1860s, removing the river from its direct connection with Somerset
House. The Great Arch has now been excavated to its footings, restoring
it to its full height and re-instating the 18th-century grandeur
of the South Building where the Navy Board had its offices.
The
Oxford Archaeological Unit could not at first identify the barge
house floor or slipway, rumoured to be of Portland stone, until
pressure cleaning revealed the ghost of the slipway as a white sheen
on the ancient bricks. The excavations revealed that the King's
Barge House was probably never big enough to take the splendid gilded
royal barge built for Prince Frederick in 1732 and now in the National
Maritime Museum in Greenwich. However, it appears to have been tailor-made
for the two Commissioners' barges which would have been used for
Navy Board officials to travel to the royal court, Parliament at
Westminster and the dockyards downstream. These barges are also
in the care of the National Maritime Museum which has generously
volunteered to loan the more ornate example to Somerset House for
display in its originally setting. Water transport on the river
was very important in 18th-century London with wherries acting as
water taxis to avoid crowded city roads. London river travel diminished
with the replacement of the medieval London Bridge, which allowed
the vicious tides of the Thames to sweep upstream making life difficult
for the rowers.
More
than a century later, a ceremonial barge is on view to the public
at its original site - a testimony to the pomp and pageantry to
be found on the River Thames in Georgian London.
This
information was kindly supplied by:
Sue Bond Public Relations,
Hollow Lane Farmhouse, Hollow Lane,
Thurston, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, IP31 3RQ
Tel. 01359 271085
Fax 01359 271934
Email: info@suebond.co.uk
www.suebond.co.uk
We
are very grateful for her help in putting this article together.
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